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Before my arrival in Beijing, I didn’t know a word of Mandarin.  Luckily, I quickly found Chinese-speaking friends in the program.  The only downside to that was that I never went anywhere at all without at least one of them.  This was necessary at first, but my family’s visit forced me to try to get around by myself.  In order to show them around and take them to some of my favorite places, I would have to be able to direct taxis, bargain and buy things, ask where things were, and order food and drinks in restaurants, and I surprised myself with how comfortable I felt with all of this.  I found I was completely capable of getting around and even holding a simple conversation with a taxi driver on my way back to Tsinghua one night, which was awesome for me.  Both in our Chinese classrooms and out with friends, I think we’ve all learned a lot more than we realize, and I’m sure we’ll find once we return that this was a very valuable eight weeks!

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The primary difference between China and America partly stems, I think, from the population problem. There are so many people here, and they quickly learn that a little elbowing others in the ribs (literally and figuratively) is required in order to get by. Also, Chinese schools tend to place less emphasis on teamwork, and the One Child Policy has made it less likely for China’s younger generation to have learned to share with and work together with their siblings. All in all, Chinese people tend to be much more aggressive than Americans. They sail in front of others who have been waiting in line, shout over others in order to be heard, and often force their way through crowds. One rarely sees Chinese people saying, “Dui bu qi,” (Excuse me) to each other as they shove past each other on the subway. Vendors also have a tendency to come right up to their customers, bellowing about their products and competitive prices.

This aggressiveness and an accompanying disregard for the rules contribute greatly to China’s most famous hazard: traffic. In China, people drive very quickly and with, it seems, little concern for pedestrians and bikers. They are liberal with the horn and have a tendency to weave through traffic and rush past lights. My own uncle is an absolute terror to drive with, particularly on winding, foggy mountain roads, which he takes at at least 6o mph with no headlights and a strange lack of awareness of which lane he should be in.

In China, whether you are in a mall or on the road, it is every man for himself. That being said, learn quickly that manners here are very different from manners in America. (I will say this now, I do not pretend to be an expert; these are the conclusions I have drawn from my own experiences here) Our idea of good manners is holding open doors, saying, “Excuse me,” and paying general respects to everyone, even strangers. In China, people often will say that manners are much more important, but what goes unsaid is that this is primarily toward figures of authority. Young men will take empty subway seats when middle-aged women are standing with bags in their arms, and few people will apologize for anything less than tripping you or making you drop something (meaning pushing, shoving, and shouting in your ear are all fair game). But many Chinese people will be humble and obedient in the presence of a teacher or an older relative, or at least will know that such behavior is expected of them.

So learn not to be offended when someone cuts in front of you in the post office because you stepped up a second too late, and try not to resent the drivers who honk wildly at you just for being in the lane next to them. They’ve grown up in an entirely different culture, which upholds values quite different than the ones deemed important in America. In China, let “patience” be your watchword, and learn to do a little elbowing yourself.

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Before my trip began, I had heard stories of travelers being quarantined in China because a passenger on their plane had exhibited signs of a fever. My friends and family jokingly warned me not to appear sick when I arrived in Beijing. I even took some advil before we landed just in case… Unfortunately for me, and my fellow classmates on the same flight, there were three confirmed cases of swine flu on the plane.

We didn’t know this for two whole days, however, as we settled into our dorm rooms, explored the Tsinghua University campus, and began to meet our classmates. Two days later, we were tracked down, and whisked away in an ambulance to a hotel used solely for quarantine purposes.

It was an experience. The government officials running the operation always wore lab coats, face masks, and hair nets. Some, like our ambulance drivers, wore full body suits resembling something straight out of a bad sci-fi movie. Fortunately, my friends and I were not confined to our rooms, but we did have to wear masks when we ventured into public spaces. The staff, who were very polite, fed us three decent meals a day; we had access to television (too bad I couldn’t understand the Chinese channels), and Internet. Our temperatures were taken twice a day, to ensure that we had not contracted the virus. No one at the hotel was actually sick; otherwise they would have been taken directly to a hospital.

The other travelers being quarantined hailed from all over—Europe, Australia, USA, Tibet… Confined from the outside world, and with time to kill (five days, to be exact), it was easy to make friends and bond over this unique and ridiculous experience.

Although I was a bit upset that my stay in Beijing was cut shorter, I do think this experience has pushed me to make the most of the rest of my time here in China. Plus, it’s a hilarious story.

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This is the way the old Beijing used to be laid out; small alleyways that created Beijing’s old chessboard grid since the 13th Century. The alleys are actually public streets with private residents just on the other side of the numerous doorways, entrances, or windows lining the cramped alley. Today, this way of living is increasingly coming under attack. Beijing is literally growing “up” and is quickly destroying the old hutong neighborhoods that give it so much of its charm. High rise buildings are replacing the old hutongs surrounding the Forbidden City and the older way of life is now beginning to disappear. Yet, for that day, I was able to find some of the “old China” in the “new” Beijing.

Walking in off the busy street, things got extremely quiet in the Hutongs. You could hear TVs playing the evening news, or children laughing in some of the numerous courtyards. Bikes slowly pass you instead of the onslaught of cars and taxis that are normally found on the real street. An old woman walks down the path, perhaps a daily regimen. Walking into one of the courtyards there was a beautiful array of flowers and trees. A middle aged man gave us a welcoming glance while his wife and 10 month old child walk out of the doorway, both with smiles, and both wondering how we had stumbled upon their part of the world.

It was easy to get lost in the hutongs, quick right turns followed by a couple quick lefts (or was it three?) is an easy way to be disoriented. Yet, it felt more like we were aimlessly drifting, because I had found what I was looking for. It wasn’t the “authentic” Beijing (if this even really exists), it was simply a place that keeps something intrinsically to itself when Beijing as a city seems to be changing and Westernizing so quickly. As much as I understood the quiet and simple dynamic of the hutong alleyways, there was something mysterious and dynamic about the whole experience. What was happening behind the closed doors and the quiet courtyards? What had these alleyways seen and what do they have to say? Unlike the flashy lights and buzzing energy of the “new” Beijing, the hutongs are keeping something to themselves. While the new Beijing offers all of its secrets to anyone with a credit card…the old hutongs helped me to realize that there is an ancient and thriving Chinese culture in the heart of the commercialized Beijing and though it may be under attack, it’s putting up a formidable (though mysterious) defense of its own.

Until next time,
Craig

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New China is evident from the moment you step off your plane and into the ultra-modern and massive Beijing International Airport.  McDonalds and Starbucks thrive in Beijing, offering western food with western prices.  Talk with a young Beijinger and you’ll find that they are fully versed in many aspects of American culture, ranging from the NBA to Gossip Girls to Chris Brown and Rihanna.  But the best and worst of New China can be seen in the city’s many modern clubs, mostly concentrated in and around the area of Santitun.  Mercedes and BMWs fill their parking lots, their bars sell 45 kuai (around $7) Coronas, and their DJs play Lady Gaga, Akon, and other Billboard Top 40 hits at earsplitting volumes.

*Recommendations for experiencing the New China:

1. McDonalds, KFC, and Pizza Hut, delivered: if you really get tired or sick (literally) of the local food, these chains all offer 24 hour delivery in Beijing.  The prices are about equivalent to what they are in the U.S., but the quality tends to be better because American fast-food chains are considered mid-tier restaurants in China.

2. Lush: a bar in Wudaokou and close to the Tsinghua campus, Lush is a good place to hang out with friends whenever you don’t feel like going to a real club.  Very westernized and somewhat overpriced, but the location is convenient, and the atmosphere is chill.

3. Mix/Vics: located across from each other by the Worker’s Stadium in Sanlitun, Mix and Vics are high-end, western-style clubs.  Both feature multiple packed dance floors, loud American music, and good nightly specials.  Go to whichever place offers a better deal on the cover/drinks that night.  Suggestion: pregame at the nearby Nanjie Bar for good, cheap drinks (if you’re over 18)  before going clubbing.

Old China… to be continued (maybe).

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1. Old Hutongs Amidst the New Beijing Traversing through the new Beijing last week, a few friends...
2. Elbows in the Ribs I have been abroad before, and I have been to...
3. “I Climbed the Great Wall” On Sunday, the Global Health students took a trip to...