NU in China » General

Hard Sleeper

n.cherepanova — Mon, 10 Aug 2009 15:15:53 +0000

As students traveling around China, we almost stereotypically looked for the most economical way to get around. The result: an overnight hard sleeper train from Beijing to Qingdao. I have some experience with trains - I’ve gone on overnight trains in Russia, and I’ve taken a 22 hour Amtrak train - but what I got was not at all what I expected.

The experience began in the train station. The building was very large, but there were still more people in it than it was designed to hold. The benches were numerous, but it was impossible to get a seat. Even if one opened up, you would have to beat several people in the race to get to it. Our group of 18 resigned to standing around or sitting on our luggage.

Boarding was announced all of 20 minutes before the train was scheduled to depart. The train was a large one, and must have held several hundred people, who all tried to get on at the same time. The pushing and shoving that I have come to expect of China ensued, for the entire 15 minutes that it took us to get through the line. I kept having to resist the urge to scream out, no matter how hard you push, we will all leave Beijing at the same time.

Finally we made it onto the platform. After walking a bit we found our car, and got into another line to get on (this one, thankfully, involved far less pushing). Slowly, we shuffled to our bunks. On the left, the train held about 25 or 30 compartments. Each compartment was open on one end, and had six bunks, three stacked on each side. There was enough head room to sit up on the bottom bunk, but not the top two, and a built-in table under the window completed the compartment furnishings. Each bunk came with a set of linen - on the ride there mine seemed clean, but on the way back, there was a large and suspicious-looking stain on the sheets. The other side of the train had an overhead rack for luggage, a narrow table under the window, and two small chairs that folded against the wall.

As soon as we boarded, everyone began preparing for bed. All the passengers on the train settled down, and within an hour the lights were turned off. In the darkness there was nothing to do but try to sleep. The car was called a hard sleeper for a reason - the mattress was about an inch thick. Sleep was a long time coming.

It seemed that as soon as it was light, the Chinese family I was sharing my compartment with began waking up and moving around. I’m a light sleeper, and I had the middle bunk, so there was no way I could ignore someone walking back and forth in front of my head. I gave up trying to sleep and got up. To my surprise, it looked like at least half the car was up and about - it was 5:30 in the morning. After a few hours the train pulled into Qingdao station, much like the one in Beijing, if a little smaller. I had survived my first train ride in China. It wasn’t an unpleasant experience, but it was very different from anything I was used to or expected.

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Testing my independence

katharinemcdonald — Fri, 07 Aug 2009 15:37:56 +0000

Everyone goes into study abroad looking to get different things out of it. Among many other experiences, I came to China hoping to test my independence a bit. I went to college 40 minutes away from where I’d lived my whole life and never traveled outside of North America until this year. I don’t think I’d ever gone a full two months without seeing my family, so while I was excited to see them I was a little worried their visit would detract from my experience of trying to be abroad on my own. Little did I know the biggest test of my independence in Beijing would come on the weekend they were here.

Before my arrival in Beijing, I didn’t know a word of Mandarin. Luckily, I quickly found Chinese-speaking friends in the program. The only downside to that was that I never went anywhere at all without at least one of them. This was necessary at first, but my family’s visit forced me to try to get around by myself. In order to show them around and take them to some of my favorite places, I would have to be able to direct taxis, bargain and buy things, ask where things were, and order food and drinks in restaurants, and I surprised myself with how comfortable I felt with all of this. I found I was completely capable of getting around and even holding a simple conversation with a taxi driver on my way back to Tsinghua one night, which was awesome for me. Both in our Chinese classrooms and out with friends, I think we’ve all learned a lot more than we realize, and I’m sure we’ll find once we return that this was a very valuable eight weeks!

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The Best Quarter I’ve Ever Spent

t.chou — Thu, 06 Aug 2009 15:52:27 +0000

I had the opportunity of going to Hong Kong during the five day break in the middle of the program. Hong Kong differed from Beijing in quite a few ways. It was much more densely packed - I always felt like I was brushing shoulders with people crossing the streets and walking through the subway stations. It was nice to be back in a place where people understood English for the most part. It was somewhat amusing to hear some of the unique colloquialisms that people used there. I found, however, that after a few days I began to adopt this alternative form of English - I seemed to begin using broken English to communicate with people. Interestingly enough, people seemed to understand me better when I spoke with bad grammar.

I spent one night going around HK looking for a good view of skyline. I took a bus up to “the peak,” a hill overlooking the city from behind, but it seemed that most of the nice looking buildings were blocked by other lesser buildings. I then continued to take the subway across to the other side of the harbor and found a nice front side view of the skyline. After taking a few nice pictures, I decided to take the ferry back across the harbor. The ferry only cost 2 HK dollars ($0.25), which was almost nothing compared to the subway or bus fare. Seeing the city skyline view from the ferry, however, was the most awe inspiring experience I’ve had. Definitely a quarter well spent.

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Weekend in Xian

dianayu — Wed, 29 Jul 2009 16:39:53 +0000

One thing I enjoy about this program is its flexibility and motivation to explore what China is really like. This past weekend, six of us planned a trip to Xian, the old capital of China. We left on the sleeper train Friday night and came back early morning on Monday right before classes.

We arrived in Xian on Saturday morning. We were supposed to be with a Chinese tour group, so when we found our tour guide, we were taken to a shady alley with a bus. At first we looked at each other, and I quickly called the travel agent, but she assured me that everything was fine. It ended up just being the six of us in one tour group– with our Chinese-speaking tour guide. She was adorable though. Noah was on our trip, and she would talk to him, explaining the history and significance of certain sites we visit while he just nods and smiles. Then she would hit him lightly and yell, “ting bu dong ba!” (you don’t understand do you).

From the moment we arrived in Xian, hilarity ensued, as well as our fascination with the city. At first it really didn’t feel like we were in Xian. We actually left Beijing, for a two day trip by ourselves at the old capital of China? Yes way.

We saw the Terracotta Warriors, which were beautiful and amazing just like you see on the internet and in books. We went to museums, Emperor Qin’s tomb, biked all around the city wall, tried all sorts of Xian delicacies, got massages, and drove water boats in ponds and had locals video tape us. What an experience. Although I did miss hanging out with the group back in Beijing and a group excursion to BeiHai park, I had absolutely an amazing time traveling with a small group, experiencing a different kind of city with its own specialties, and seeing things that I only saw my books and magazines.

For future China study abroad students, or any study abroad students, I encourage you all to explore and make use of the time you spend in your country. There is some planning involved but it will be well worth it. There’s just so much out there in the world, and our Xian trip was on that I will never forget!

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From Chicago to Beijing…with love, of course

rachelwang — Wed, 22 Jul 2009 15:44:12 +0000

It has already been 4 weeks. Who would have thought it would pass so quickly? Half of our time in Beijing has flown by, and I feel like I am just beginning to truly understand the city and its culture. As an American born Chinese, I have seen the similarities and differences between the United States and China. The longer I stay, the more I appreciate both cultures. I am constantly reminded that even though I am in a different country this summer, it really is no different than home. Maybe it’s because I grew up in a home where speaking Mandarin was “the norm,” and Chinese cuisine was never odd. Maybe it’s because I have traveled to China several times before, and I do not have as great a “culture shock” experience as many others do. Who knows? It just feels right to be here.

Northwestern is located in Evanston, a suburb of the Windy City. As for Tsinghua? While it is still located in Beijing, it is nowhere near the bustling, metropolitan areas of the city. Both campuses are (for the most part) quiet and filled with students conversing with friends while heading to class. In fact, there is even a “lakefill” here! Rather than walking, approximately 90% of Tsinghua students bike to and from their destinations. One wide sidewalk along Sheridan Road would definitely not be enough room for the hundreds and hundreds of bikes I see each day. Want to go downtown to shop or have fun with friends? Take the El…or should I say Beijing Subway? The system here is quite convenient, and the trains are much cleaner and more punctual.

As for shopping, bargaining here is a must. When walking through the long corridors lined with vendors in centers like Silk Street, Ya Xiu, and Tian Yi, I am constantly astounded by just how much “stuff” there is. You want it? They really do have it! Buy more than one, and you have yourself a great deal. Sure, starting offers when they see an American jump to perhaps 10 times the amount a person should really pay. However, you know that in advance; start your offer much lower. In the end, they will succumb. I’ve seen friends bargain from 300 to just 20-30 yuan. I often feel a little guilty, because the vendors work so hard to earn such little money. That’s life, I guess. Seeing this helps me appreciate the United States, where no bargaining is involved when I want to buy clothes. The price on the tag is the price I need to pay. That’s all there is to it. No games. Of course, these bargaining areas are not the only places to purchase items. Large department stores and boutiques are available as well. When I step inside, it feels like I’m back in Chicago, shopping at Water Tower Place and down Michigan Avenue.

Sure, there are differences. It is, after all, a different country. When I step back and think about it, however, I seem to find more and more similarities every day. I think I am starting to view Beijing as my home. For the summer, at least.

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The Gym

nicoleablondi — Wed, 22 Jul 2009 15:41:53 +0000

I’m pretty sure the concept of the American gym does not exist in China. After a few days in Beijing, and five in quarantine, doing nothing but push ups and sit ups for exercise, I knew I needed to find the gym at Tsinghua. Two friends and I discussed pounds-to-kilos conversions and set out for the gym, a couple minutes by bicycle from our dorms. The non-air-conditioned indoor facility had several bench presses with wooden benches and wracks so narrow that benching was at least a two-person job, two and a half dumbbells, four or so barbells with fixed weights on the ends, Smith machines, and lots of pull up bars. Without dumbbells or an assortment of adjustable benches, I realized that lifting in China would not be the same as in the States, and it probably doesn’t make sense to try to do the same exercises without the equipment. Someone needed to show me how to exercise with less equipment.

The next week I went on a bike ride around campus, and, as usual, got lost about twenty minutes in. I drove by an outdoor gym, and decided to stop for a quick workout before renewing my efforts to find my 宿舍. The outdoor gym had lots of bars and barbells for benching that were fixed in metal loops to prevent people from walking off with them. There I met two Chinese students who work out there everyday. It’s a little challenging to meet locals here, since it’s so easy to just hang out with friends in the study abroad program, but I think exercising is the one of best way to meet locals. So my 訢朋友 showed me how to use the slightly different equipment, which was a decent workout, but I think it’ll take some getting used to. Running on the track is nice, though, except I’ve heard that you take in three times as much pollution running as you do biking. It’s definitely a different way of staying in shape here, and it obviously works, but I still miss Patten.

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Elbows in the Ribs

Annie — Mon, 20 Jul 2009 15:18:31 +0000

I have been abroad before, and I have been to China several times, but it wasn’t until this trip that I came to realize how very different the people and cultures of different countries can be. Sadly, many of these differences come across as something bad, when, just like we learned from shows like Barney and Arthur, they are simply something we are unfamiliar with and likely do not understand.

The primary difference between China and America partly stems, I think, from the population problem. There are so many people here, and they quickly learn that a little elbowing others in the ribs (literally and figuratively) is required in order to get by. Also, Chinese schools tend to place less emphasis on teamwork, and the One Child Policy has made it less likely for China’s younger generation to have learned to share with and work together with their siblings. All in all, Chinese people tend to be much more aggressive than Americans. They sail in front of others who have been waiting in line, shout over others in order to be heard, and often force their way through crowds. One rarely sees Chinese people saying, “Dui bu qi,” (Excuse me) to each other as they shove past each other on the subway. Vendors also have a tendency to come right up to their customers, bellowing about their products and competitive prices.

This aggressiveness and an accompanying disregard for the rules contribute greatly to China’s most famous hazard: traffic. In China, people drive very quickly and with, it seems, little concern for pedestrians and bikers. They are liberal with the horn and have a tendency to weave through traffic and rush past lights. My own uncle is an absolute terror to drive with, particularly on winding, foggy mountain roads, which he takes at at least 6o mph with no headlights and a strange lack of awareness of which lane he should be in.

In China, whether you are in a mall or on the road, it is every man for himself. That being said, learn quickly that manners here are very different from manners in America. (I will say this now, I do not pretend to be an expert; these are the conclusions I have drawn from my own experiences here) Our idea of good manners is holding open doors, saying, “Excuse me,” and paying general respects to everyone, even strangers. In China, people often will say that manners are much more important, but what goes unsaid is that this is primarily toward figures of authority. Young men will take empty subway seats when middle-aged women are standing with bags in their arms, and few people will apologize for anything less than tripping you or making you drop something (meaning pushing, shoving, and shouting in your ear are all fair game). But many Chinese people will be humble and obedient in the presence of a teacher or an older relative, or at least will know that such behavior is expected of them.

So learn not to be offended when someone cuts in front of you in the post office because you stepped up a second too late, and try not to resent the drivers who honk wildly at you just for being in the lane next to them. They’ve grown up in an entirely different culture, which upholds values quite different than the ones deemed important in America. In China, let “patience” be your watchword, and learn to do a little elbowing yourself.

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Look both ways before you cross the street.

danielwozniczka — Wed, 15 Jul 2009 15:25:54 +0000

I am forced to choose only a select few of my experiences to share with you, as it would take a lifetime to fully describe this trip. In this post, I shall share with you my worst experiences so far. In my next post, I shall share my best experience.

One of the most frustrating aspects of China is traveling on a bicycle. Bicycles are far more common in China than they are back home, to the extent that we see equal amounts of bicycles on the street as we see cars. Going into this trip, I was looking forward to the opportunity to ride my bicycle around the streets of Beijing. Once I arrived, I learned how dangerous it actually is to ride a bicycle here. Firstly, the bicycles are of terrible quality. I have about $20 American dollars for my bike, and have already spent about $15 for repairs in the past three weeks. You can literally feel the bike shaking, making strange noises, and falling apart as you ride. Every time I pedal, I wonder to myself if the bike will fall apart. Secondly, the traffic is hectic. The thought of crossing an intersection fills me with a great deal of dread. Despite the fact that one lane will have the green light, the other lanes simply don’t seem to care. I have come within inches of getting hit by cars, as have many others on this trip. The effect of both these factors together is terrifying. Imagine crossing an intersection, hearing cars honk their horns, terrified that your back wheel will fall off. It is easily my least favorite experience.

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A Different China

amyjia — Tue, 14 Jul 2009 15:51:52 +0000

I’ve grown up in a Chinese family where I spoke Chinese and ate Chinese food basically everyday. Being here in Beijing this time, however, is a much different experience. I’ve seen and learned much more by being on my own. Each day I realize how surprisingly (and embarrassingly) little I know about China. I can see that my Chinese is improving greatly, as is my knowledge about Traditional Chinese Medicine. It is now a frequent topic of discussion with my Grandpa, who used to be a doctor. Because visiting my relatives in Beijing is such a rarity, I have loved being able to discuss with him something interesting and worthwhile.

Of course, our weekly excursions are always fun. A pattern of hiking or sweating somehow on Saturday and then shopping on Sunday has emerged. My favorite trip has definitely been herb hiking along an untouched part of the great wall. It was exhausting and it was incredible. For the week long break ahead, I look forward to continuing the trend of hiking, as we are going to Tai Shan - a big mountain. With many, many stairs.

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From 847 to 798

ymanibog@gmail.com — Mon, 13 Jul 2009 20:39:42 +0000

Today we went to the 798 Art District, a neighborhood full of old factories and warehouses converted into art galleries, studios, workshops and cafes. The area looks like it could be found in a typical European city, with the added Beijing touch. After walking past outdoor cafes you look through windows to see statues of mutlicolor bulls and headless soccer players or drawings of anime characters fighting in forests. Needless to say it was bizarre to jump out of the busy 10 lane avenue into the pedestrian, quiet and colorful streets of Dashanzi.

After being dropped off by cab we ventured into the a book store, selling both Chinese and English art books. A couple of us history students jumped on a book chronicling the propaganda posters starting in the early 1900s. We then had dinner in a cafe catering to Western tastes. Pasta carbonara and Club sandwiches were our picks, chosen in an attempt to quell the taste of scorpion, chicken heart and octupus/squid balls eaten at Wangfujing the week before.

We then walked through the galleries. I was surprised to see how the communist movement is still such a pervasive influence on art - Mao’s portrait appeared in many different pieces, be it on the oversized stack of 100 kuai bills or a collage of Little Red Books. Another highlight was the sculpture variations of Buddhas, basically overly obese statues lounging in ratan chairs.

I’m still so shocked by how architecturally modern this city is. I guess my expectations (which I shouldn’t have had in the first place) were based on images of the poorer side of China, but these buildings were incredibly beautiful, bringing together the old factories with cosmopolitan architecture.

It really was great to take a break from the hustle and bustle of Beijing city life, to see how the rich artistic side of the city flourishes in this area.

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